The Italian Place

As I walk in the front door, I immediately notice the freshly made pasta available for purchase displayed behind glass at the front counter. Not knowing what to expect, my mood picks up and my expectations are raised.  I’m greeted by the waiter (who I recognise from somewhere – probably another Italian dining establishment in Canberra?) and get to pick a spot for my solo lunch that week day. As there aren’t too many people dining in, I pick one of the red and white checkered covered tables by the window.

Presented with the wine and food menu, and provided with tap water, I’m considering my options – the wild mushroom ravioli with burnt butter, the casarecce with pork neck ragout, the gnocchi with tomato and mozzarella, the pasta with clams? I’m set on a pasta dish since That Italian Place make all pasta fresh in–house. I always try to pick something I can’t make / can’t be bothered to make myself. I love mushrooms and ravioli – but will I only receive 5 pieces and be unsatisfied? I decided on the casarecce with pork neck ragout ($26) as it’s a cold day and sounded the most comforting.

I’m surprised when a basket of white bread and rye, with olive oil, is placed on my table. 6 slices to myself! That doesn’t really happen much at a regular Italian joint. I only have two slices as I know more carbs are on their way.

I order the pasta dish with no wine or drink, and wait. The dish comes out and it’s a sizeable portion. It’s a simple tomato base with what seems like slow-cooked pork so that the meats falls apart easily. The casarecce pasta is paired nicely with the dish as the pasta shape folds into itself and captures the sauce inside so you get a mouthful of tomato ragout each time. As I dig in, I realise there is so much ragout that I probably won’t finish it all. And I didn’t. I did polish off all the casarecce though #lovecarbs. A simple homely dish done very well.

I try to go back a few weeks later for dinner with my friend V, and am told the restaurant is fully booked on a Tuesday night! So reservations are essential for dinner. After making a reservation for another night, we arrive at our table for two.

There isn’t much time to catch up with V before a waitress comes over to let us know the specials for the night (very well memorised I might add). There are quite a few entrée, pasta and meat specials. I order from the regular menu and choose the gnocchi with tomato sauce, mozzarella and basil ($26). I’m a little disappointed when it arrives in front of me, served in a small thin crockery dish as a very small entrée-sized portion. I’m kicking myself thinking I should have asked if the gnocchi was meant to be an entrée or main, and that the tagliatelle carbonara sounded better. I’m warned that the dish is hot and not to touch the side of the dish. As I dip my spoon to pick up a single piece of gnocchi, the spoon slices through the top half. Oh no. It’s far too soft and/or over-boiled, almost like potato mash. The traditional simple toppings are nice but it’s still a rather small portion for $26 and I am still hungry after polishing off the plate.

V orders one of the specials that day, the tortellini served in a light broth (unsure of price). They are plump and cooked al dente, but she mentions they are nothing special and not something she would order again. Again, the portion is small and not the most filling.

I am very disappointed especially after an amazing first experience. Determined not to give up, I chanced a third solo visit for lunch some months later. My jacket is whisked away to a closet somewhere at the back and I’m immediately asked if I would like still or sparkling water. I notice some changes to the menu for Spring and am glad that the pork neck casarecce is still on there. As per the last visit, a waitress talks me through the specials on the blackboard.

I decide on the bavette allo scoglio ($28) from the regular menu, a long flat pasta, thinner than tagliatelle, tossed with clams, mussels, prawns, fish, cherry tomatoes, garlic and chilli. This smells fantastic and I’m grateful that all the seafood has been shelled so no dirty fingers for me. Absolutely amazing garlicky flavours with perfectly cooked seafood in every bite. The fresh cherry tomatoes helps to lift the oily richness of the dish. A slightly small portion but I used some of the bread provided to mop the tasty garlic and chilli oil. Third time is a winner.

Dessert menus are available and include home made traditional tiramisu, semifreddo, panna cotta, doughnuts, cheeses, and gelati of the day. I’m yet to try any dessert.

I think it’s worth giving this place a go. The menu seems to update regularly and there are always new blackboard specials. Perhaps just ask whether a dish is entree-sized so you are more aware of portion sizes. Staff are knowledgeable about the food and friendly. Make sure to book a table especially for dinner.

That Italian Place
38 Mort Street, Braddon, Canberra

Opening hours:
Monday – Saturday: 10.00am – 9.00pm.
Sunday: Closed

Foodgasm 8.5/10
Value for money 7.5/10
Service 9/10

FPJ score 25/30

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